Why did Bunker surf?

Bunker Spreckels
Editor’s Note: Bunker Spreckels is known to some as the Prince of Decadence. Other’s think he is a legend. A person of folklore. We enjoy a good Bunker story as do many. The DemonFactory will be spending a little more time exploring Spreckels and his exotic life. We have spoken with Art Brewer recently with regards to doing an interview with us about his extended time with Bunker. For those of you who don’t know, Art is one of surfing’s legendary photographers. Brewer captured most of the images of Bunker that are around today. Many consider Art’s work… art.
These interviews were conducted at Spreckels’s home in Wailua Beach, Oahu, in winter 1976 by the legendary Surf and Skateboarding journalist, CR Stecyk. Stecyk is also credited with a portion of the skateboard revolution of the 1970s. See Z-boys article here. Bunker died on 7 January 1977. Bunker is survived by a sister and a brother.
‘Why did Bunker surf’ was the question that Stecyk asked. Bunker said “Something beautiful to look at, something beautiful to think about in a society that’s pretty rat-fucked. Something that you can still do that’s just beautiful, aesthetic”…
At one time, Bunker owned a total of 39 boards. I asked Jamie O how many he currently owned and his number is over 100. He will typically snap almost as many per year. JOB also said that he has boards stashed all over the world due to airline surcharges.
He never surfed for a company or was sponsored. When asked why he said of its restrictions. Having to do this and having to do that. Be at a certain place at a certain time. “…had I made it professionally this year, all of a sudden I would have been playing the surfing game by their rules. That to me is defeating the whole purpose of surfing, which to me is getting off the land and going out and being free in the water. I just felt the whole thing was self-defeating.”
Spreckels specialty was riding small boards. His second specialty was tube riding. “…Small tubes and big tubes… that’s when I really turn it on…” he says.
Bunker believed that he was as good as any pro during this time. He said that he could ride big waves. Small waves. Lefts. Rights. He said that he developed a style that could imitate many various surfers. He created his style from watching surf films and studying the magazines.
At 27 years old, Bunker said he thinks he has done as much as he can in surfing. He’s surfed just about every major spot in the world. Bruce’s Beauties in Africa. J-Bay. Sunset. Pipe. Velzyland. As well as many outer islands.
Spreckels says that he was a reincarnation of a Hawaiian prince. That there’s a group over in Hawaii that thinks he was. He said he was told that by a couple of Hawaiian women.
You can view the full Spreckels interview from Stecyk here. Also, you can visit Art Brewer’s website here.



